Saturday, December 8, 2007

Big Surf Revisited

Wow... 6000 people in 3 days is a lot of visitors...Gatlog was overwhelmed ;)

I guess that means people like looking at big waves...that or I've become way too big of a web geek for my own good. Anyhow, I thought I would contrast the waves from last week with that of those we had 2 years ago, on what was really "Big Wednesday". Ironically, these were shot December 22th 2005, almost exactly 2 years ago.

Taken from roughly the same spot as my photos from last week, except I used way too much lens that time. Notice how the wave fills the entire frame. Unfortunately you lose most of your perspective as to just how large that wave is, although... I think you can still get the point ;) I'm no wave measurement expert, but in my years as a surfer I'd guess thats over a 20 ft. face he's about to rocket down...and at least a ton of water.

This was taken from Swamis that same day a little north of La Jolla.

Swamis as seen from afar. Keep in mind that you have to paddle through all that white water to get to the surf. Basically like running a never ending marathon, without being able to breath, in freezing water.... and with Semi Trucks running you over every 5 seconds. It's AWESOME... ;) And then you get to try and surf...makes sense right? I didn't think so.

This absolutely breaks my heart. That board is easily 600-700 dollars. An Al Merrick Channel Islands Gun...basically a Ferrari for large surf. Either he is the richest moron on the planet, or the poorest incredible surfer...I never found out.

Back at the Cove. La Jolla just goes monstrous when the conditions are right. And when you mix in a bunch of mid-life-crisis-loving older guys, 8 ft boards, and get some scary results...they ended up running into each other... it was great!

The "LJC" as we lovingly refer to it. The cove at it's greatest.

This is Black's beach on the same day as well. I was a busy, photo happy, nut ball that day. As seen from the La Jolla Glider Port looking down. This was shot with a 700 mm lens with a teleconverter. Basically I was shooting with 900mm worth of lens, and I was still far away, but still, it made for some great photos.

That little speck on that wave is a person...a very, albeit temporarily, happy person. (click to enlarge)

Black's beach doing it's impression of heaven on surfing least for me...I'm sure some of those guys found it to be a little more like hell...but to each his own... I guess.

Looking at La Jolla Cove from the Glider Port. You have to understand that is a rather large distance between us. To make out wave shapes from as far away as I was is just looney. They estimated waves then to be as large as 20ft - 30ft. I don't think I saw a 30 footer out there, but I wouldn't surprise me if there were.

(Again, all these shots were taken December 22, 2005)

It's really a rare thing to see waves this large, these photos rob you of the shear power they bring with them. The waves explode in every sense when they break. Tons of water are thrown around with such fury it's unimaginable. However, despite the chaos these waves bring, there are occasional moments where a surfer tucks into a barrel and the whole setting becomes so serene and peaceful. The crowd, if there is any, generally holds its breath and gets goosebumps, and when the surfer emerges from his or her watery grave the entire pack of surfers greets him with hoots and hollers. It is really quite a sight.



Allan said...

6000 visitors?? incredible!
that certainly puts you on the map around here.
and tnx for the '05 shots as well

Sunset Cliffs a lot like Black's in how close you can really get to shoot
-that is my locale-AWN

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